- Cultural Reclamation: Pakistani Gen-Z women are reviving the saari, a garment historically marginalized due to associations with India and Islamization policies, using it as a form of cultural expression and feminist rebellion.
- Modernization & Social Media Influence: Influencers and fashion-forward women are modernizing the saari, pairing it with contemporary styles and popularizing it on platforms like Instagram, where it’s embraced by both celebrities and everyday women.
- Heritage and Legacy: The saari holds deep historical significance for families, symbolizing a connection to heritage, and its resurgence is seen as an effort to break societal stigmas and honor cultural traditions.
At 24, Ayesha Lari has earned a reputation among her friends as a true saari enthusiast. Last year, she distinctively celebrated Eid—by draping saaris with her six closest friends, a departure from the traditional shalwar kameez, typically worn for such occasions.
This personal connection to the garment began nearly a decade ago when she discovered one of her late grandmother’s saaris, and ever since Lari has incorporated the saari into her daily
The Saari’s Quiet Disappearance
The saari, once a common sight in Pakistan, especially in the upper and middle classes, slowly vanished from mainstream fashion in the 1980s. This was partly due to societal shifts, as well as a perceived ban during the tenure of President Gen. Zia-ul-Haq, whose Islamization policies discouraged the attire.
Furthermore, the garment became stigmatized due to its association with India and Hinduism, a connection that reinforced public resistance to wearing saaris. For many, it was seen as immodest or provocative, as Indian pop culture often portrayed it as a sensual piece of clothing.
Reclaiming Tradition
In recent years, however, young, urban Pakistani women have started reclaiming the saari as a symbol of personal expression and feminist empowerment.
he growing popularity of movements like the annual Women’s March, with slogans like “my body, my choice,” and initiatives like “Girls at Dhabas,” which encourage women to reclaim public spaces, have fostered a spirit of independence and self-expression. Wearing a saari has become part of this broader cultural and social shift.
According to radio host and journalist Sabah Bano Malik, the act of wearing a saari can feel like an act of rebellion against societal norms.
“It says I’m not conforming, but I’m embracing what feels right to me, a part of my culture,” Malik shared. Despite facing criticism, including body shaming and backlash due to the saari’s association with India, women like Malik have pushed back, launching social media campaigns to normalize the saari and promote body positivity.
Saari Trends in the Social Media Age
Social media has played a critical role in bringing back the saari, with influencers and fashion-forward women sharing their looks online. Hashtags like #SarisForAllSizes have helped make the saari more inclusive, while Instagram brands such as “The Saree Girl” have attracted thousands of followers, including top celebrities like Mahira Khan and Hania Aamir.
Despite the rise in saari popularity, not everyone has embraced the trend. Many, like Malik’s mother, still associate the garment with the sexualization of women’s bodies. Malik herself has experienced both praise and harsh criticism for modeling a saari in 2021, but her activism, along with other influencers like Baemisaal, has continued to shine a spotlight on the saari’s cultural significance and its ability to break beauty and body image stereotypes.
Reviving a Piece of History
The saari holds a deep connection to the past for many families in Pakistan, especially those with ties to India or those who migrated during the Partition. Despite its decline in mainstream fashion, families have kept heirloom saaris alive, passing them down through generations. The garment, worn by notable figures like Nusrat Bhutto and Naseema Begum, the daughter of former President Ayub Khan, once graced political stages and advertisements.
Though saris were never entirely banned, their visibility in public spaces diminished, particularly when television newscasters—considered trendsetters—were restricted from wearing them during the Zia era. As shalwar kameez gained popularity, largely due to the influence of political figures like Benazir Bhutto, the saari faded into the background.
Modern Interpretations of the Saari
Today, a new generation of Pakistani women is putting its spin on saari fashion. From pairing saris with button-down shirts, crop tops, and even sports bras, to new fashion innovations like the “pant saari,” which blends the traditional garment with contemporary styles, women are giving this historic piece a modern twist. Karachi-based designer Andaleeb Rana, who runs the fashion brand Bulbul, notes that such designs have made the saari more accessible and attractive to younger women.
Despite this renewed interest, the saari’s association with India remains strong, as evidenced by the assumptions of taxi drivers or neighbors who still find it unusual to see a Pakistani woman in a saari. But this perception has not stopped its growing acceptance, even beyond Pakistan’s borders. The Saari Girl brand, for instance, has gained international attention, with orders coming from the Pakistani diaspora as well as from places like Australia, Germany, and even Turkey.
Breaking the Stigma
Aiza Hussain, founder of The Saari Girl brand, has made it her mission to normalize saari-wearing for Pakistani women. Through her research, Hussain discovered that negative perceptions of the saari are still deeply rooted in society, with many viewing it as immodest or tied to Hinduism. “Most of us have ‘othered’ this garment,” she says. However, her work aims to show that the saari is a timeless garment that transcends religion and can be styled to suit any woman’s personal taste—whether modest or modern.
A Legacy to Cherish
For many, the saari is more than just a piece of clothing. It represents a connection to their heritage, family, and history. Passed down through generations, a saari becomes an heirloom that bonds women with their mothers and grandmothers. It is a versatile garment, adaptable to all body types and styles, and its resurgence among Pakistan’s Gen-Z is breathing new life into a cultural icon long thought forgotten.
The return of the saari is not just about fashion—it is about reclaiming identity, breaking stereotypes, and rediscovering a part of Pakistan’s rich cultural heritage.
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